Photography Travelogues – The Great Barrier Reef 1/2

They say that daylight has a colour temperature of around 5500 K, but out to sea under a blue sky, this isn’t always the case. It’s funny how our habits as photographers change – or should I say, how my habits have changed. When shooting film, I’d usually have an ultraviolet (UV) filter on my lens ‘to take the blue out’.

While invisible to the human eye, ultraviolet radiation generally records as blue on colour film and as haze on all films. It has a similar effect on digital sensors as well, but of course, many of us don’t believe in using filters anymore.

There is an argument that states, why would you want to degrade the quality of your lenses by placing another piece of glass (or, heaven forbid, plastic) in front. If the lens designers thought a filter was a good idea, surely they would have included it as part of the design. This argument fails in several places, of course, but even so, given digital photography allows us to adjust our image files so easily, many ‘essential’ filters are no longer used. And in any event, the majority of UV filters were sold for ‘protection’ of the front lens element, and you could clean them with a dirty sock if you had to because, if scratched, they were not as expensive to replace as the front lens element.

Not that I ever cleaned my lenses with a dirty sock. Ever.

Here’s the original exposure with the white balance in Capture One Pro 6 set to ‘Shot’ mode. In other words, this is the white balance setting suggested as a starting point by my camera. Of course, capturing raw files means I can change the white balance to any setting I like when converting the file. According to Capture One Pro 6, the Kelvin is 7943 K and the Tint is set to 3.0.

Note, there are no adjustments made to this file at all – it is effectively straight out of the camera. However, you can see quite clearly that it is ‘daylight’ over Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, so what happens if I set the white balance in Capture One Pro 6 to ‘daylight’ (or if I had set the white balance to daylight on my camera)?

At a 5500 K daylight setting, the photo is considerably bluer. And this isn’t what I remember seeing, either. The human eye when coupled to the brain is an incredible imaging device, not only adjusting the ‘exposure’ but also filtering out colours. I remember very clearly how strong and vibrant the colours over the shallow reef were compared to the darker blues of the deep water outside. This colour contrast is lost due to the overpowering blue colour cast.

I’ve taken a dozen helicopter rides over the Great Barrier Reef and every time it is different. In August, I was on Hamilton Island, giving a workshop with David Oliver and Bruce Pottinger. We do this every year and one of the highlights is the helicopter ride over Whitsunday Island and then out to the reef.

On this day, there was a strong southerly wind and the air was very hazy, which means that the images are lacking in contrast. The greater the distance, the more haze you look through and we’re at around 1500 feet (from memory). So, while I didn’t have an ultraviolet filter with me, I could use Capture One Pro 6 to tweak the colour temperature (just a little warmer) and increase the contrast. I also added an adjustment layer to darken down the sky at the top.

If you’re interested in the photography workshops we present on Hamilton Island, or you just want an excuse to visit Australia’s tropical north, please visit http://hamiltonisland.com.au for more details, or visit my site at http://betterphotography.com. It’s a great excuse for a week on Hamilton Island

8 Responses to Photography Travelogues – The Great Barrier Reef 1/2

  1. dougstroud says:

    Thanks for the article Peter. I am left with two questions after reading your post; 1) So what is your feeling on UV filters, use them or not and 2) to minimize the haze in your image did you use the clarity adjustment slider?

  2. Envious! thanks from me too, Peter.
    Apparently this topic was not planned at the time of the flight.
    Otherwise it would have been a great opportunity to take a pair of images, one with UV filter on and one without – for comparison. The question, if a UV pays with extreme UV radiation could have been solved. I get the feeling of a haze from the enlarged final image. But it could be due to high compression (I would gladly wait a few seconds longer to receive an unharmed copy) – or it could actually be due to the lack of an UV filter.
    I always use an UV filter in front of my lenses – for both reasons. I regularly wipe dust or even strange? fingerprints off, and by now the coating of my dear lenses would have suffered from that.
    But I am still in doubt regarding the reducing effect on UV radiation. Would I have been better off with my digital raws before C1 with an UV filter?

  3. I had a similar situation while above Oahu. This image required a similar color temperature adjustment to compensate for the excess blue.

    http://johnmaclean.com/oahu_04_05/content/DFES7547_large.html

  4. George Argirakis says:

    I think that the IR filter that is mounted from the factory on every digital sensor (exept one of Leica’s sensors) it is also a UV filter, (they are bandpass filters from around 350nm till around 700nm) so I doubt If with the mounting of a UV filter on the lens, we have that type of considerably image improvement.

  5. Peter Eastway says:

    Hi there,

    Thank you for your comments!

    There are two issues, one of colour, the second of reduced ‘clarity’ due to loss of contrast. There is both UV and haze in the image. I’m not a scientist, so please take my understanding of the topic as a generalised statement.

    With the strong winds blowing this day, I imagine most of the haze is sea spray in the atmosphere.The blue colour I imagine comes from the sky and water as there is no ‘land’ around to absorb and balance the colour. The UV light hitting the haze is scattered everywhere, including into the lens and the result is a reduction in contrast. By removing the UV light with a UV filter, you can reduce the blue colouration and increase the contrast.

    I didn’t do a comparison as I never use UV filters – maybe I should – because I can fix the problems easily in Capture One. The question that remains unanswered is, if I used a UV filter as well as using Capture One, could I get an even better result. That is something I will have to look into!

    I find a little extra contrast helps reduce the effect of the haze. I generally just use the contrast slider, but it makes sense the clarity slider can also help. However, you can get unwanted side effects with clarity that aren’t present in a curve/contrast adjustment (and vice versa) – I’ll have a play with both next time I’m processing file from that shoot as well.

    Cheers Peter

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