Clarity tool for Landscape Photography
March 7, 2013 19 Comments
The Clarity tool in Capture One 7 has had a couple of new features added which can be used to great effect, especially in landscape photography. Within the Clarity tool, there is now a Method drop down menu containing three choices.
These are Classic, Neutral and Punch:
Classic uses the same method found in Capture One 6. Neutral uses an improved method of Clarity, introduced in Capture One 7. Punch uses the same Clarity adjustment as Neutral but also increases the local saturation a little. Additionally for all methods there is also a Structure slider.
Different Clarity Methods
Clarity has always been a very popular adjustment in all kinds of photography. The addition of Punch and Structure can be quite useful for landscape photography. Clarity essentially adjusts local contrast in the mid tones and this effect can be seen on all three methods in the Clarity tool.
The image below is split in two halves. The left hand side has no Clarity adjustment, whereas the right hand side has a Neutral Clarity adjustment of +100.
The result clearly shows a contrast bump in the midtones, especially in the water and sky. Punch makes the same contrast adjustment as Neutral but with a little extra saturation too, subtly visible in the beach. Again, the image with no Clarity adjustment is on the left and the image on the right has a Punch Clarity adjustment of +100.
Using Structure
The final new addition to the Clarity tool is the Structure slider.
The structure slider is useful for adding details to complex structures, especially edge definition. In this close up example the image on the left has a zero Structure setting, and the image on the right has a Structure setting of +25.
Clarity Analogy
Now with the addition of Structure, it seems like there is a many ways to add micro contrast and sharpening to an image. Perhaps the following analogy will help. Consider an image of a tree and you have the option of using Clarity, Structure and Sharpening. Clarity will enhance the tree trunk and the large branches. Structure will enhance the smaller branches and leaves. Sharpening will enhance the structures on a leaf itself.
Each of the adjustments play a different part in affecting the image so it is worth spending some time with the Clarity tool, to see how it changes your images.
I have developed so many great landscape shots with this method and can only confirm this.
Neither with Lightroom 4.3 or Photoshop CS6 can I adapt it so good and easy.
great. I didn’t realize there was the structure adjustment. Now I don’t have to go into silver efex pro to get that done.
I’d agree, the clarity tool is a revelation to me as I was previously using ACR and Apple Aperture for most of my processing. I feel like I need to re-work all my best shots now!
I have absolute confidence that C1 is the better tool for developing images, but there is something fundamentally wrong with the file management. I know how to use the tools and some are fabulous, but I’m buggered if I can live with the file handling.
I recently spent a day with you in Manchester and have just been on a follow-up day with Chris Ireland, where from the start until 2pm the course was devoted to importing images, Sessions and Cats. The rest of the software had just two hours on it.
It’s dreadful, I’m having to give up on it. Any other raw developer is straightforward. Become familiar with one, you can manage the rest without any training. I’ve even contemplated hiring Chris to do a one-to-one, but that’s going to far.
I’m not a studio photographer, but I cannot see why one would pretend to be tethered, to open a new Session, to later import it into a Catalogue, but not to allow a Catalogue to become too big to slow progress. Dumbfounded and withdrawn.
I, too, am left with an uncomfortable feeling when using Sessions. Is the point of Sessions and Catalogue to find and display images? If so, File naming and folders will do that in conjunction with existing software. Why re-invent the wheel? Use C1 to convert Raw.
I agree wholeheartedly! I have on occasions had C1 refuse to open as it was looking for a previous session and I had moved the files (because that’s how i like to work!) Could I figure it out? No! I had to contact tech support just to get it opening in the right place. I am a landscape photographer and its easy to find my photos from folder and sub folder and the suffix I give each file when developing. All these sessions and catalogues are just too confusing and unnecessary for most photographers
I think that perhaps c1 file structure is of more relevance to studio photographers. You can circumvent the problem by linking c1 to a programme like photoshop ie such that when you click the process button the image is opened in PS and then after final adjustments save into your desired file structure.
But yes I agree that for landscape photographer’s c1 can be over complex and non intuitive.
The best program for photo editing! Thanks to the developers!
From the point of view of changing the image, I agree completely and want to use Capture One Pro, but that’s not all it’s about. I have Version 7, but started with Version 4.
On the one-day course, I wanted to know how an image could be transferred to Photoshop, modified, saved and then show again in the folder, or an adjacent folder, so that I could call on it again in the future for further modification after de-dusting or stitching, or content aware cloning.
A simple task in Lightroom, or Aperture as the Photoshop/SilverEfex/DxO file drops right into the folder along side the original or is there in Bridge; but no answer on the day from the tutors. I’m not talking an integrated round-trip here, just let me see all the images from that shoot together, or more important that series of images of Paris/London/Formula1/family etc taken over a 6 year period, say.
I’m a wedding photographer, but when I hear Sessions are best if less than 300 images, I wonder WT. ? 1,000 images is a normals days work.
Thank you for the explanation.
I understood Neutral and Punch.
What about Classic? What does it do?
Reading the artible the following comes to mind:
1. Remember that increasing clarity may drive one or more rgb-channel to saturation levels, exposure checking and proofing is advised.
2. Clarity might be applied as a local adjustment. In many cases yhis will be the better option compared to global.
I’m having trouble with the dust /spot removal tool.
Does not retain removal of blemish when the ‘circle’ is moved away from the application area.
Could you please advise me about this.
Many Thanks
Stephen Martin
Srmartinhome@aol.Com
Stephen- go to http://forum.phaseone.com/En/
You’ll probably find an answer there instead of here.
As an architectural photographer, I find the clarity tool invaluable for many situations when I don’t have the on-site lighting control I’d like. Although “punch” is nice, I prefer the “neutral” as it doesn’t change saturation so dramatically on my interiors. “Punch” is nice for many aspects of exteriors though.
I have been using C1 for many years, I think it is the best thing since sliced bread.
I go out of my way to avoid the complicated file system, if that was simplified I would give C1 110%, I now give it 100%, I love using it.
Please support PENTAX K-01 !!!
And Leica M Monochrom! Please.
And Leics S2 please
Dear all,
Thanks for your comments.
We are always working with camera manufacturers to provide support for their cameras, so I think some of you will have your wishes fulfilled in the near future.
All the best,
Niels