Photography Travelogues by Peter Eastway – Karijini National Park 1/3

 

In the coming weeks, landscape photographer Peter Eastway will share his passion and knowledge about photography with the readers of the Image Quality Professor’s blog. Peter will take us with him through his recent photographic experiences in Karijini National Park. He will write about his preparations, what gear he uses and finally how he uses Capture One to get the best out of this photos.

Karijini National Park is one of Australia’s largest national parks, and arguably one of the most spectacular. The park is famous for its sheer gorges, waterfalls, cool swimming holes and amazing photographic opportunities.

Hancock Gorge, Karijini, Western Australia

Some places are simply difficult to get to, but the effort is worth it.

Carved out of the iron-rich stone of the Pilbara region in Western Australia, Hancock Gorge lies hidden in Karijini National Park. Leaving the dry heat of the surrounding desert, the trail to this tapering cascade starts with a steep descent down a rough bush track, followed by a rickety steel ladder. This brings you to the bottom of the gorge and from here it’s a further kilometre of rock-hopping, scrambling and swimming to get into position. The most difficult section is a crab-walk along a 200 metre rock wall, its near vertical sides punctuated by narrow, uneven ledges. It would be quite fun without 20 kilograms of camera gear on your back, a large tripod and just one spare hand.

Shoes are off for the last stretch down the narrow Spiders Trail, the cool water rushing around your feet, your legs pushed out to the sides of the cutting for balance, before opening up into a beautiful swimming pool and the cascade at the far end.

Of course, for many people, getting down into Hancock Gorge is a stroll in the park. If you’re fit and active, it’s not a problem, but you need to be careful. Every year there seem to be a few walkers who are seriously hurt or even killed because they didn’t watch their steps carefully enough.

Each time I visit Hancock’s Gorge, it’s different. The time of day and cloud cover affect the way the light bounces off the gorge’s walls, creating different colours and reflections. And rain followed by flash-floods re-arrange the large rocks and boulders strewn along the gorge’s floor.

However, one thing that remains the same is the sense of tranquillity I have as I set up my camera. There’s no need to rush as the light won’t change too quickly. Tripod legs can be spread across the watercourse and the camera pointed down. Generally speaking, a wide-angle is useful for tight locations like this, but maybe not as wide as you think.

As you can see by referring to the original image above, I ended up cropping this photo, choosing a square format so I could centre the water cascading over the stone steps. I also tilted the frame so the image looks level. I actually think the camera was perfectly level when I took the frame, but when I cropped the image, it looked too angled, so I used the Rotate Freehand tool to make it look visually correct. This left a sliver of image missing in the bottom right corner, but this would be easily fixed after processing out the raw file using Photoshop’s Content Aware Fill feature.

After cropping, I have used my Quick tab in Capture One Pro 6 to set the exposure, contrast and colour saturation accurately for the entire image, except the bright flowing water in the centre. When you’re sitting in this position, you’re keenly aware of the colours in the rock, but they don’t always translate onto the sensor because of the cool, blue skylight illuminating the scene. Capture One Pro 6’s Advanced Colour editor let me select the yellows and blues in the rock and give them a little extra saturation.

I also remember seeing the pools down the bottom of the gorge as being iridescent green – they certainly are when the sun is striking them directly in the middle of the day, so I decided this needed to be corrected as well. This meant I had two areas in the image – the flowing water and the distant pools – which needed local adjustments. This is where Capture One Pro 6 really shines!

I add a Local Adjustment layer and worked on the flowing water first. When you use the Local Adjustment brush, you can control the area you want to change by adjusting the size of the brush and the edge of the brush (whether it is ‘hard’ or ‘soft’). This means you can be as accurate as you need to be, but I’m a bit lazy and prefer when I can to use larger brushes with a soft edge. This lets me feather the local adjustments into the image, so you can’t easily see where the adjustment begins and ends. I like to think of this as ‘invisible editing’ – you know I’ve done something, but you can’t really tell where!

To control the water which was overexposed, I found that darkening it made the image look a bit muddy, so I also increased the contrast setting. This rescued some of the detail in the rocks below the running water, while maintaining some white highlights and sparkle.

For the distant pools, I added a second Local Adjustment layer and using a small brush with a hard edge (around setting 80), I carefully selected the two small pools. I then used the Advance Colour Editor to change the golden yellow colour to a more ‘accurate’ green.

Hancock Gorge is a place you never tire of and I can still see some angles I have yet to try.

To see more of Peter Eastway’s photography techniques, including his Landscape Photography MasterClass, please visit http://www.betterphotography.com/.

Inverted Masks in Local Adjustments

When working with local adjustments in Capture One Pro 6.2, you now have the option of copying a mask from one layer to another.

Moreover, you also have the option to make an inverted mask.

When optimizing an image using local adjustments layers, you often need to do adjustments in a mask in one layer combined with adjustments in another layer based on the inverted mask.

The image on the left side has been optimized by using a local adjustments layer with a mask for the sky and an adjustments layer with the inverted mask for the foreground. The image on the right side is straight out of the camera.

First, I create a new adjustments layer for the sky by pressing the “+” button in the local adjustments tool.

With the brush cursor tool set at a large radius and hardness 0, I paint a mask for the sky. To enhance the colors and drama in the sky, I add some extra contrast for this mask.

For the foreground, I add another adjustments layer. Instead of painting a new mask for this layer, I just reuse the mask from the sky but in an inverted form.

Click on the triangle in the local adjustments toolbar to open the menu “Copy Mask from” and select the mask “Sky”.

In the same dropdown menu, you can now select “Invert Mask”

Now, I have a perfectly matched mask for the foreground. In order to open up the very dark foreground, I also add exposure compensation, brightness as well as some saturation.

Use local contrast adjustments for increased drama!

Capture One Pro 6.1 now includes contrast adjustments in local adjustments layers.

Contrast applied locally can be very powerful and add more drama to landscape images.  Typically, a sky with clouds can be changed dramatically by applying contrast in a local adjustments layer.

Portrait images can also be enhanced by using contrast locally in an adjustments layer.  For portraits both decreasing and increasing contrast can be effective.   

The photos above are an example of a landscape image where the use of contrast in a local adjustments layer has a fantastic effect, creating drama in the sky and the entire image.  The image to the left has come straight out of the camera. The image to the right has been optimized primarily by adding contrast to an adjustments layer that has been applied to the sky.

Create your own powerfull images:

The first step is to make a mask for the sky.  A graduation type mask will work excellently for this image.  You can get information on how to make a graduation type mask in the article on this blog “Working with graduation filters in Capture One Pro 6” from the 17th February 2011.

Because the clouds in the image are already quite bright, applying contrast alone will only lead to even brighter clouds. A contrast curve makes dark parts darker and bright parts brighter.  So the trick here is to combine the increased contrast with decreased brightness.  For this image, a contrast of +50 and a brightness adjustment of -39 create exactly the increased contrast in the sky that I was looking for.

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